Namaste!

I return again.... My last post was fairly lengthy and as a result I had not gotten around to telling you about our exciting ferry trip to Ernakulam from Fort Cochin.

After some time spent wondering, I mean wandering around the Jewish quarter in Fort Cochin, K and I decided to leave our dear friends Kate and Carl to their shopping expedition so that we could venture off for a ferry ride. Our experience of a ferry ride in Alleppey previously had been very rewarding, not only is it a very cheap method of transport you also get to have a great experience watching people go about their daily business either on or off the boat.

We got on the ferry for a total cost of 7 rupees (message to my nephews - that is not even a packet of biscuits). K and I were gratified that for once we were paying the same as the local people :-) We had a great ferry ride. We viewed huge tankers (Cochin has many oil traders and there are pipelines here and there), dockyards, stevedores, container ships and a few fishing boats. It was good fun and not particularly ridden with diesel fumes. When we arrived in Ernakulam city we were dissapointed - it was a grotty place (apologies to anyone from named place who may happen to be reading this ;-) and it was for the most part full of businesses that were closed on that day. The only thing that I have to report is that we ate a new fruit called a seedapom (the phonetic spelling) and K bought some new apparel. We then headed back to get the ferry, this time we had to pay for the tickets in advance rather than make the purchase on the ferry. K joined the queue, which was not moving, and then all the sudden bypassed it using the window for women only! We then joined the bundle for the ferry at the gates. More people gathered behind us. As the ferry arrived we were informed that the other gate would be open instead. As a result of this news, the group of people that we were amongst, who had been waiting patiently, soon turned into a highly energetic mob as everybody ran to position themselves into a new bundle only 20 metres away. Ahh the fun and games. I found K grabbing my hand and dragging me through the crowd to join the newly formed grouping. There we stood for another five minutes whilst the ferry parked up and the passengers departed. I spent this time playing "grab the stone" from a small boy. There was a wee young chap, no older than five, standing with his parents and looking particularly bored, he was shuffling a pebble around beneath his feet. Being in a similar state of mind myself i.e. short and unable to see much in the crowd thus resulting in a boredom, I decided to join him whether invited in his game or not. I proceeded to try and steal the pebble from beneath his shuffling feet. Ah, how he smiled and made me smile. We then spent the next five minutes giggling as I tried to snatch the stone from him with the shuffling of my sandals. I soon won through trickery but due to a quick tactical maneuver by him I found myself losing my valued possession :-) We had a great time playing with the stone, his parents and the people around were also amused by this impromptu contest. The time soon came to board the ferry, a small child was passed over our heads just before the crush ensued. Young men at the back were pushing forward having no regard for anybody who may be young, infirm, slight of frame or elderly. A huge momentum of energy resulted and feeling as though I was squeezed out of a tube of toothpaste I popped through the gate and a mad run to the ferry ensued. Between the ferry and the quayside there was a huge gap, this did not stop the virile young men from continuing in their mission to get on the boat sooner rather than later. They climbed onto the side of the ferry walls, hung from it's roof and swung onto the boat with complete disregard for anybody else. K and I managed to board safely but it wasn't without some nerve.

When we arrived at our destination the disembarking of the boat was even more shocking. Not only was there a huge gap to the quayside but it was also a metre higher than the side of the boat from which we were to exit. There were no stairs or even a plank to help us in this matter, just a wing and a prayer and a helping hand. It was every health and safety persons dream or nightmare as the case may be. Children were fine, they could be passed up, thankfully there were no elderly people aboard, although I have to admit that I was curious as to how they would have suceeded in the matter. K, using her well developed, fed on milk during childhood, biceps, easily pulled herself up to the platform, she then proceeded to pluck me up to land. Thus ends another exciting venture.

One last thing that I would like to share with you.....

I have found myself feeling ashamed and angry over the last few days. We have spent enough time here in Kodai for me to become familiar with the territories of the local beggars. There has been one man in particular who approached K and I the other day, stooping and repeating the words "ma ma" "ma ma". We do not give money to beggars, we had given some food previously so feeling particular sympathy for the elderly man I thought about what I had on my person to offer him. Much to K's dissapointment (she is possesive when it comes to bananas ;-) I offered him one of the bananas that we had just bought. He would not accept it (I am not sure if this offended or not) and he continued to repeat the words "ma ma" "ma ma" and putting his fingers to his mouth. We left it at that. Yesterday I walked to town alone to buy some provisions for the poor ill thing that was left in bed back at camp. I saw the same beggar again on the same stretch of road. He was walking upright but upon sighting me he stepped to the side of the road amongst some bushes then reappeared stooping and tapping on the floor. He then made a beeline in my direction saying the same words "ma ma" "ma ma". I walked by again, he followed me but after 20 metres gave up the struggle.

In town I found myself in the market. There were more beggars, there were new ones in town. One guy in particular horrified me - he was positioned on what appeared to be all fours. I caught a glimpse of him as I walked by and noticed that his left leg was not only overgrown compared to the rest of him but that the lower part was bent forward instead of back. It lay upon the ground pointing at the hand that was supporting his weight. Again I gave no money or food (the latter I was not carrying).

There are many people in India disfigured like this, either through polio or through inadequately treated injuries, some are made like this by their parents (I dread to think by which method) when they are children so that they can get more money due to their disability and sympathies from passers-by. Many of them end up begging in the streets throughout their life. Begging is a profession, people can earn a lot more money. I heard that there was a woman who gave up her cleaning job of 250 rupees a month, she went to beg in the streets where it is possible to earn 200 rupees a day. There is even a Beggars Union..... Everytime we walk we encounter this and we walk everywhere we go. Every day you are faced with the same moral dilemma as to whether you should give or not. It is recommended that we give to charities instead. Sometimes I dislike these people, I am ashamed to admit it, I dislike them because I dislike myself. My instant and shallow reaction is to dislike them because I feel terrible every time I do not give to them - I feel guilty about my health and the fact that although I am not rich I can afford to feed and house myself. In my heart I really pity them and wish that I could do more. Why is there no care for the people who end up pleading in the streets? I wonder what problems there are in a system that should lead them to such an abysmal career.....

Sorry to end on such a sad note note but for as many beautiful and amazing things we see and discover, there is also a balance to be had: the counterweights are sights such as these.